Sport C Racing Steering
There are 3 main parts to the steering apparatus. Steering bars on the motor, wheel and drum, and pulleys and guides.
Steering Bars
Steering bars can be custom built or ordered from Tabara Racing. They bolt to the motor using the powerhead bolts. Some are 1-piece, others have a bracket and bar. Not all versions use every motor mount bolt. Keep in mind that the setup needs to be secure, all the prop torque will end up in the steering system. Depending on the thickness of the steering bars, longer powerhead mounting bolts may also be called for. Keep in mind these are metric motors, so it may take special ordering longer bolts through a fastener outfit. Also be careful when installing the steering bars, as removing the bolts frees up the powerhead, and if it's tilted it may want to break free of the gasket and fall.
Steering Wheel and Drum
Racing steering wheels should be comfortable to grab. Diameters in the 10-12" range are popular, however it does depend on drum diameter and driver preference. Both drum and wheel diameter affects steering torque and turning effort, and how far the wheel must be turned to make a corner. Easier to turn means farther to go. There isn't time in racing to hand-over-hand in a tight corner like fishing boat.
There are 2 main drum and wheel arrangements. One the wheel mounts directly to the drum. The other the wheel and drum are on a shaft of some length. In both examples here the wheel and drum are shaft mounted.
A few install notes. The wheel needs to be a comfortable distance from the seat, and this will depend on the driver. The drum location must be planned so the cable doesn't interfere with the dash instruments, throttle pedal, or getting in and out of the boat. With normal setups, the steering cable must come off the BOTTOM of the drum for proper left vs right
steering (locate cable cockpit pulleys accordingly). The trim switch(s) will be mounted on the wheel, and the wiring must get from there to the dash without fouling up when turning. Some boats also have the start switch on the wheel for easy access for LeMans style dock starts.
Pulleys and Guides
The steering cables must somehow exit the cockpit coaming and get to the motor steering bars.
There are custom racing pulleys made by companies such as Machined Components, CMP Keller, Nydhal (now built by Wintech Engine and Marine) and others. Note that these suppliers also carry other parts like wheels, drum assemblies, and other hardware. Pulleys from Harken, Ronstan, or Lewmar can even work.
The first example is a Nydahl pulley,
the second
a Ronstan.
Once the cables leave the cockpit pulleys, they have a long way to go to reach the steering bars. Letting them flop in mid air, or even worse against the cockpit sides, isn't ideal. One or more guides will help tame them. Just make sure they stand out far enough to keep the cable off the boat.
